At sadder moments my mother would tell us of my older
brother, Ernesto, some 10 years my senior who had died of meningitis at the age of 10
months. It had been a heartbreaking experience for his parents, particularly for my mother
who was, in so many ways, so alone. It had been, indeed, the beginning for her of years of
ill health. "It was so awful to see his head turning from side to side on the pillow
and not be able to help him". She showed us his christening robe of fine lawn and
Valenciennes lace like cobweb, slotted through with satin ribbons now turning brown with
age, also a pathetic bundle of his fine lawn baby clothes.It was at some time during
this period of invalidism that mother had a curious experience. She had been troubled with
severe backaches and a twisted feeling within her body. The doctors could do little for
her and at last, though against her better judgement, she allowed Roberta, the
housekeeper, to bring in a 'curandera', an Indian healer or witchwoman. Mother described
the feeling of the woman's fingers on her body, firm, competent, gentle fingers probing
carefully. There was a sudden pain, than an absence of pain. Whatever had been out of
place was righted and my mother was never troubled by it again.
My mother was fond of pet animals. Her English pugdog was with her all the time, and
once by its barking, brought to her attention a scorpion curled up in the slipper which
lay below her hammock. When the Indians on the hacienda heard of her interest in wild
things they brought her rabbits and fawns trapped in the bush, and once, a tiny grey
squirrel. (There had been a knocking at the door of her room in the dim hour before dawn,
and when she opened it an Indian, on his way to work, had put the tiny creature into her
hands.) She also raised chickens in the inner patio and sold the eggs. This was a strange
hobby for the wife of a wealthy man, but, for some reason, no money was ever entrusted
directly to her. She could order whatever she liked and in any amount, but the bills were
sent to my father. This, I have been told, was because he mistrusted her where her own
family was concerned. He was afraid she would be asked constantly to pay for this or that.
Whatever the reasons, she deeply resented this state of affairs so decided to earn her own
pin money. I have two simple chinese rice bowls which she treasured till her death.
"I bought those with the first money I made from my hens", she once told me.
Life in town was varied by weeks spent at the plantation. Here mother learnt to cook,
out of sheer homesickness for English food. Armed with a deliciously lush edition of Mrs.
Beeton (complete with lithographs) she taught herself all manner of intricate dishes, and
discovered apt pupils among the Indian kitchen boys. She even decided to cure ham, but
this effort was doomed and produced only a terrible smell as the meat decayed instead of
curing. Among her triumphs was the production of French fritters, little golden, crisp
balls, airy as soap bubbles, which were eaten with honey made by wild bees. These months
on the hacienda had a great influence, I believe, in forming my mother's character. Part
of her mature charm was her ability to adapt herself to circumstances. She had a certain
mobility which contrasted greatly with most people of her generation who were bound by
convention. She knew the rules well enough, but she also knew that at times one had to
seek out solutions of one's own.
When she came to Yucatán, Mother knew only a few words of Spanish. My father, who had
been educated at the Jesuit school of Stonyhurst, in England, spoke English, as did Perico
Regil and a few other young men who had been to Beaumont. But none of the young women
spoke it, and my mother was forced into months of silence because she was too shy to use
her faulty Spanish. Then one day, quite suddenly, it burst upon her that she could speak
it! She must have had a keen ear for inflection and turn of sentence, for she not only
spoke Spanish, she spoke it beautifully, and she wrote it with style and grace.
In spite of her natural English reticence she made many friends among people of all
ages and conditions. Among the most devoted were tia Felipa Fajardo and handsome,
vivacious Josefa Regil, Perico's sister, many years her junior and whom she had at first
characterized as "an impertinent child". Courtly Don Alvaro de Regil admired her
greatly, and gave her a turquoise ring with which to grace her "manos, blancas como
las de una condesa". The servants were her willing slaves. I believe she had learnt
tolerance by the unkindness which had been inflicted on her and the art of listening
because for so long she had not been able to speak out. People poured out their troubles
to her because they knew she would listen and never betray a confidence. She was one of
the few foreigners to be completely accepted by the family -(more accurately, by the
clan)- yet somehow she managed to retain her identity as an Englishwoman. She seemed quite
at ease in either of two worlds, the English and the Mexican, yet carrying to each
something of the other.
My own awareness of her came when I was about four years old, and my first memories of
her are not in Mérida but in London. My father's death in 1903 had placed her in a very
difficult position. Her health had been quite restored by a trip to Europe in 1900 (on
which I was born in 1901) and she had come back to Mérida prepared to live a far broader
life than before. The Quinta, the charming villa my father had built for her on the road
to Itzimna, was almost finished and my father had decided to buy as well a house in Mexico
City so that she could escape the hot Mérida summers. He had heard of an attractive small
one on the Paseo de la Reforma, not far from the house built by his cousin Perico. (I have
often passed by it, a smallish, comfortable looking place set back a few yards from the
avenue and shaded by two great mimosa trees.)
It was in Mexico City in April 1903, when making the last arrangements for the
purchase, that he was stricken by what was then called "vomito negro" and which
I believe was some form of intestinal blockage, and he died a few days later, in great
pain, at the home of his sister Joaquina who was married to Tomas Viamonte. My mother, who
was in Mérida, was stunned. Not only did she feel her personal loss, but she was
catapulted into a strange and difficult position. As my guardian she became entirely
responsible for the very considerable fortune my father left me, and yet she knew nothing
at all about the management of the haciendas which were the source of this wealth, and
almost as little about managing the daily household expenses. No money had ever passed
through her hands, except what she made by the sale of her eggs and chickens!
As an Englishwoman she naturally wished to see me educated in the English manner, but
on the other hand it was up to her to see that I was brought up to shoulder the
responsibilities which would be mine when I grew up. And those responsibilities lay in
Yucatán. Her objective was clear enough. I had to be at ease in Europe and yet love and
understand my own land despite its provincialism, its remoteness from what seemed to be
the cultural stream of the world at that time. She came to the decision that those ends
could best be accomplished by living part time in Yucatán and part time in Europe, two
years in the former followed by a year of travel.
The family counselled her to sell the Quinta and settle in the town, perhaps sharing a
house with some relative. Old tio Joaquin Peon pointed out that it was not seemly for a
beautiful young widow to live alone in the backwoods, as it were. Politely, but firmly, my
mother pointed out that she was hardly living alone since she was surrounded by a large
staff of trusted servants and that her daughter's Irish governess was also there to keep
her company. Besides which, the Quinta was not the 'back of beyond' for it was on the
outskirts of a very respectable village and the land surrounding ours belonged to very
respectable people, including many kinfolk, all of whom were building, or hoped to build
Quintas (country villas) too!
Thus did my mother break with old established custom, but she did it with so much tact
that within a year or two it was considered the most natural thing in the world to live on
the road to Itzimna - and tio Joaquin never batted an eye when his pretty Maruch, widowed
and with two baby daughters, went to live in Spain by herself.
My English education started with the arrival of my first governess, Miss Cogan. She
was an Irishwoman, pretty in a pinched way, and very pleasant. She seems to have got on
well with everyone. For me it meant settling down to the routine of nursery life after a
period of delightful spoiling by the servants. A Mexican child is brought up haphazardly,
as the spirit moves. He is never stinted of love, whatever other undesirable features his
bringing-up may contain, such as late hours, adult diet and an overdose of doing his own
will. Under Miss Cogan, my upbringing was the opposite of all this. Everything was done at
a fixed hour, food was plain and wholesome, lessons were part of each day. My cousins
thought this very austere, which it was in its way.
Since we were very wealthy my mother could allow herself the pleasure of always having
the best. On her European trip, at the time I was born, she had given rein to her natural
desire to own lovely things. She had good taste, which she cultivated by visits to museums
and galleries, and in her personal adornment she had a natural elegance which she indulged
by becoming a patron of Paquin, the great Parisian dressmaker and rival of Worth. My own
good clothes she had made by a famous children's outfitter in Paris and these were
generally of lawn or linen trimmed with handmade lace and tiny tucks. For every day my
dresses came from London, practical linen smocks in blue or pink or "Holland",
an unbleached light tan material. Silks, satins and imitation laces were all
"out", so were bright colours and jewelry. I had two lovely religious medals of
gold set with tiny diamonds, and a string of small corals, and these could be worn to
parties and on Sunday. But on weekdays, no trimmings of any kind, and never any rings,
brooches or earrings. (I was I think the last girl of my generation brought up to believe
that her first ring should be her engagement ring!) I had what every child longs for,
ponies, a pony cart, pets, toys, books; but all of these had to be put to a disciplined
use. I could ride my pony, but only at the hour convenient for the orderly running of the
household. I had servants to wait on me, but my whims were never allowed to encroach on
their fixed duties or free time. In some ways, Mother had planned a semi-royal mode of
upbringing, in others she was years ahead of her time. For instance, my free time was my
own, entirely mine, with little grown-up supervision, and certainly no grown-up
interference in matters which did not concern them such as, what form my play should take!
In the matter of books...
My physical wants were looked after by Miss Cogan, Roberta and Dominga, but for some
reason it was Mother who administered all medicines and spankings! Why these two had been
singled out by her I do not know. Miss Cogan dealt with my misdemeanors by standing me in
the corner, or, when I was able to write, making me 'do' so many lines in my copy book.
But though my mother was not there physically to get me bathed, dressed and fed it would
be absurd to think of me as apart from her, for her thought for me was all-enveloping and
all-pervading. Nothing that was done for me by others but had been planned by her. When I
was ill, with one of those sudden rises in temperature which afflict children in the
tropics, Dominga might bring me my tea and toast, but it was my mother who had found out
which tea set I most fancied; who had decreed the exact number of slices of toast and the
amount of butter to go on each. My days might be monotonously predictable, but every
little pleasure that rippled the surface of the too-still pool had been thought of and
contrived by her. So the bond that was forged between us was a bond of the spirit so close
as to be almost unbearable. Even at the age of five I was tormented by thoughts of what
life would be like without her if she died, a thought brought on by seeing a picture of
the parents of the Babes in the Wood on their deathbed. I remember Miss Cogan once asking
me why I was crying and of having to concoct a white lie because I did not want to tell
her the real reason.
My hammock was slung in my governess' room, where, in deference to her nationality, a
hard little bed had been placed for her to sleep on. My mother's room, at this period, was
next door, and we had to pass through it as we tiptoed on our way to breakfast. This lack
of privacy in Mérida houses was a constant shock to foreigners; but oddly enough my
mother, who never got over her dislike of the freedom and coarseness of Spanish
conversation, did not seem to mind this intrusion. She later moved to the "new"
wing of the house though I cannot remember at what date.
I loved being with her when she dressed or undressed. Her clothes were so beautiful
especially the underthings of filmy handkerchief lawn exquisitely embroidered, which were
made for her in France. At night she wore the native huipil, of which she had many, all
with intricate cross-stitch designs at neck and hem. She would plait her long black hair,
which was full of auburn shadows, into one braid which lay like a heavy rope down her
back. Her dressing table was cluttered with little boxes of silver and with heavy
tortoiseshell combs and pins, but there was a dearth of cosmetics. She never used rouge
(her skin was soft and flawless and of a healthy white, her cheeks lighting to a pale pink
when she was in a cool climate) and lipstick would have been unthinkable in that era. She
did, however, use powder. Her hands were exquisite, with long slim fingers and nails which
grew in a perfect almond shape. She never needed a professional manicure, but would file
her nails with emery board then buff them to a delicate shell pink. She attributed her
flawless skin to a perfect digestion and to sulphur soap! (This was an evil smelling thing
she had sent out to her from England). Every morning on awakening she would drink a glass
of water mixed with the juice of half a lime and this was held accountable for the sparkle
in her eyes.
It is difficult to analyze her beauty which was composed of so many intangible things
rather than of perfection of features. Her hazel eyes were too small, but they sparkled,
her lips too thin, but they recorded the fleeting beauty of her smile. Her nose was
perfect, slightly aquiline, graceful and aristocratic. She was completely un-English in
looks, but what was she? I have found traces of her in Greek statues, Spanish paintings,
Mexican madonnas, portraits by Sargent and the photographs of late Victorian Russian
Royalties.
Because she deliberately shielded me from close contact with what she disliked and
mistrusted in Yucatán, a rarified atmosphere was created around me. I was cut off from
the companionship of many children, including kinsfolk, so Mother felt an obligation to
supply me with playmates whose parents best fitted in with her ideas for me. Nena Regil,
daughter of Perico, occupied more or less the same position as I did. She also had a
governess, and already possessed some of the English 'polish' which set her apart from
other children. The Arrigunagas, whilst completely different in up-bringing, were stamped
with an aristocratic mark which was unmistakable. So were the Camaras and the Juaneses,
who formed the outer perimeter of my small social world.
When I say 'aristocratic' I do not mean snobbish or proud. I mean, rather, that our
group had a higher standard of appreciation and a broader outlook, which included also an
insight into the moral obligations of wealth. Whilst the political turn of events of the
last four decades kept the men of our group out of politics, which they qualified as
dirty, they still felt a deep obligation to help in all manner of good works, both
spiritual and cultural.
My mother differed from them on one important point, however. She could not look with
approval on the system of labour which prevailed on many of the plantations and which she
classified as "slavery". True it was not slavery in the ordinary sense of the
term, when a man has right over the body and soul of a fellow man, but it embodied a
curtailment of freedom and of the right to a free choice of work and place of work which
my mother found most repugnant. The same applied to the condition of the household
servants, particularly the women. In our own plantation and in our home this system was
mitigated as much as could be, and from my earliest childhood I was taught that all men
should be free. However, Mother did approve of the Yucatecan tradition which included all
those living under one roof, immediate family, kinfolk, servants, in the all embracing
idea of a household or family. She felt responsible for the well being of the entire
group, and the joys and sorrows of each individual became part of the experience of the
group. "No man is an islande".... I have always felt thankful for this side of
my upbringing.
Our little social group whilst serious was also full of fun. The grownups dined and
lunched together, progressed from malilla to whist to bridge, visited, went on excursions.
It was a very pleasant life.
Tio Enrique Camara and tio Melo Arrigunaga were great wits. They had both spent years
in France and had absorbed some of the pleasanter characteristics of French culture. Tio
Perico was English in manner and way of life. He was an austerely religious man, something
which produced skirmishes between him and my mother who was more tolerant and gentle. I
remember how she battled for my birthday party the year the great day fell on Ash
Wednesday. tio Perico was for total cancellation, my mother for holding it on Sunday,
therefore out of Lent. Theologically, I believe, she was right, but Tio Perico did not
believe in any mitigation! The Portuondos were another delightful couple. Pert Josefa
Regil had blossomed into a handsome, witty and charming young matron, with a contagious
interest in everything; Aurelio, her husband was a Latin American version of the best of
Wall Street, a cultured man, appreciative of the good things of life in the modern world
without forgetting the basic virtues. We children liked him because he treated us with a
certain kindly deference.
Julian Aznar and his blue eyed wife Camila, and Gabriel Arana added an aristocratic
Spanish touch to the group. They were quite energetic and would come to play tennis or
croquet in the late afternoon, rather than cards with the evening group.
Dinner parties were frequent affairs and Mother always dressed up for them. Paquin had
made her beautiful gowns of filmy black, some touched with silver or with superb antique
lace. During her early widowhood my mother had discovered how lovely she looked in black
or black and white, and these became her trademark, as it were. One dress I still remember
quite vividly, an Empire gown of black chiffon over black chiffon, over white! Between the
two layers of black, delicate garlands of roses had been embroidered in silver bugles and
silver ribbon. The dress had a long train, held out by delightfully rustling pleated
taffeta frills. With this dress she wore a sautoir of pearls, pearl and diamond earrings,
and diamond encrusted combs holding up her pompadour.
It was only after her second marriage that she started wearing colours again, though I
do remember a lavender satin evening gown which must have come before this event (perhaps
as transition from mourning).
Afternoon visitors at the Quinta were numerous and ranged from the very poor, such as
workmen, old servants and other dependents on my mother's generosity, to the Bishop and
Archbishop. Bishop Mejia was a gentle old man now living in semi-retirement at the
seminary. He was a family friend and my father had been his pupil at the Institute
Catolico. I, myself, had been the first person confirmed by him after his consecration.
Mother disapproved strongly of infant confirmation, believing that the Sacrament should be
received when one stepped out into the battlefield of life, but she could not resist the
request of her old friend. Archbishop Martin Trischler was quite different, plump and
rosy, betraying his German ancestry. He was an affable, prudent man much loved by his
flock (though Mother and I, in later, revolutionary days, felt he lacked the fire that
might have inspired us at that particular difficult time). I enjoyed the visiting
prelates, and they enjoyed my mother's tea. My shyness at having to kiss their rings and
curtsy was offset by my curiosity to examine the beautiful gold-set amethysts at close
quarters.
My cousins considered my mother very glamorous. She was understanding of very young
people and always took them seriously. Added to this she was not addicted to kissing and
hugging them, nor remarking on their growth and personal appearance. She liked certain
children very much, as individuals, but she never became sentimental over children as a
segment of society. Her eyes were wide open, and she liked people in spite of their
peculiarities, never putting them on pedestals, a position both uncomfortable and
untenable. Closest to her heart were Nena Regil, the sweet, intelligent child with
tremendous depths of feeling and tall, skinny impetuous Minta Arrigunaga, the perfect
tomboy. Only my mother saw in her the lovely, tender woman of later years.
Mother did not play with us, but we played with her. She would invite us to join her
grown up pursuits and during quiet sessions after lunch led us from Old Maid to Canfield,
from vingt-et-un to Bridge--even to poker! It must have been funny to watch our under-10
Bridge game. At other times we were invited to help her make cakes and we would stand
around the pantry table watching her beautiful hands whip up the seed cake or Bath buns
for tea, or we would help her shred bitter oranges for marmalade. At other times she would
take us to see something interesting or beautiful, or let us help her in turning out the
linens and china closets, or talk to us about things she had seen in Europe.
She was deeply religious, but after her fashion. Her course was as different from that
of tio Perico with its austere, punctilious observances, as it was from the frivolity of
those ladies who attended twelve o'clock Mass to see and be seen.
As a young married woman she had risen early and gone daily to five o'clock Mass in the
Cathedral, or wherever suited best, but at the time of which I write she lived too far
from any church to make this practicable. However, she frequently stepped into the
Cathedral on her daily visit to town, either to hear Mass or to spend a few minutes in
prayer. (To the end of her life it was her practice never to pass by a Catholic church
without going in). In her life this took the place of formal prayer at set intervals. We
did not assemble the household to say the Rosary, as did tio Perico, nor did we (except in
the nursery) have morning and evening prayers. I think my mother had a horror of
'mechanical' prayer, and of prayer offered under compulsion. But I remember books of
devotion left around haphazardly in her room or wherever she might be sitting, and I feel
certain she picked them up to read at intervals during the day.
She did read a great many books on subjects of interest to Catholics and for her
time she was well informed on the more historical and controversial phases of religion.
Books by good Catholic writers of the day she displayed proudly and naturally along with
other current literature, but she had little use for spiritual 'saccharine' in the form of
pious pamphlets and inspired stories.
I do not remember her using religious medals either for personal adornment or as a
pious symbol; but on the other hand there was not a room in the house which did not boast
its Saint, Madonna or Crucifixion, either in a picture or a statue. Her innate good taste
made her eschew the tawdry, so that our religious symbols were nearly all antiques (some
of great artistic merit, others of the folk art variety) but all helping to create an
atmosphere of spirituality in the house.
She had a great appreciation of the majesty and magnitude of the Mass, and she was also
drawn to the services of Vespers and Benediction. But I never knew her to attend what we
speak of now-a-days as 'Devotions'. Sometimes, if we were still in Mérida in the month of
May she would send me with my governess to the May ceremonies at the Jesuit church as an
onlooker, not as a participant. It was the custom for white-veiled children to go up to
the altar after the service taking with them bouquets of flowers which they placed at the
feet of Our Lady's statue. I was consumed with envy of these happy young people, of their
flowing veils and dresses, their stiff bouquets of flowers and their sweet familiarity
with God as they swarmed around the altar. I have never understood why Mother did not wish
me to take part. Perhaps it was because of her pronounced distaste for publicity of any
sort.
Once a year, on Wednesday of Holy Week, Mother made her pilgrimage to Lourdes, the
family church, where Bishop Mejia heard her confession, and mine when I had reached the
prescribed age of reason. I believe my mother was so filled with reverence and awe for the
Holy Eucharist that she only approached the Sacrament because the church commanded her to
do so once a year. She would have been horrified at the idea of harboring so Jansenistic
an attitude had you pointed it out to her, but the fact remained that she went to
Communion only when she had, so to speak, merited so tremendous a blessing, whilst we, in
our generation, flock to the altar rail seemingly without valuing What we receive, yet
driven by some inner compulsion which makes us cling desperately to the one verity in our
chaotic world.
It was a sense of reverence which made her put off my own First Communion till I was
eleven years old, though my cousins, guided by the wishes of Pope Pius X, had all made
theirs some years before.
Mother rarely spoke to me of religion, but she put within my reach books suitable to my
years and which included stories by Father Faber and lives of the saints. Stories from the
Old and New Testaments and the Catechism formed part of my daily schooling. However, what
made a greater and more lasting impression on me was the daily and glowing example of her
charity and generosity. Her failings were, quite literally, covered over by the mantle of
her charity. Small child that I was, I would marvel at the way in which she gave, not only
money, but the kind word, the close and interested attention, the friendly advice that
might mean the difference between hope and despair to the recipient. After her death a
poor and humble person spoke to me about her..."She was not like the other ladies who
came here," the woman said, "they were nice and kind, but when she spoke to me
it was different. She raised me up to her. I also became a lady." She had a wonderful
sense of courtesy and tact towards the poor.
Religious conviction and English heritage fused when it came to business practice and
relations. "My word is my bond" was her simple answer to the accusation that she
failed to extricate herself from a business commitment when another more advantageous one,
it seemed, came along. (In this particular instance her integrity brought a rich temporal
reward as the firm to which she had sold the henequen crop was so delighted with its
quality that they decided to pay a bonus on all henequen raised on our plantations). She
could not understand the over-shrewd business deal, the slick operator, or the amassing of
wealth for the sake of wealth. She was never foolish in her expenditures, but she spent
freely where it would do good or bring happiness. Looking back now over the years I find I
like her brand of religious thought. She must always have been very close to God. And lest
you wonder how I know these things about her, let me remind you that I was a very
observant child, a very silent child. What I saw and heard, particularly as it related to
Mother I gathered to my heart, and I have pondered over it over my lifetime. Whilst my
evaluations may not be those made at the time by the child who learned these things, they
are the outgrowth of them